Bathurst Harbour, which you’ll explore by sea kayak, is a drowned valley, flooded by rising sea levels when glaciers and the polar ice caps melted at the end of the last Ice Age, 12,000 years ago.
The harbour is surrounded by lowlands and hills, rising to rocky quartzite peaks. Rivers running into the harbour drain extensive areas of ‘blanket bog’, a characteristic vegetation community of Southwest Tasmania. Water running through these buttongrass peatlands leaches tannins from the plants, colouring the creeks and rivers a deep amber. Open to the sea, the waters of Bathurst Harbour are salty (or brackish) and dark – this has created a biological curiosity, with species of marine animals and plants usually found in deep water living close to the surface and sunlight.
From the broad expanse of the inner harbour, the waterway funnels westward towards the sea, with a tidal race running through The Narrows at the point where walkers on the Port Davey Track cross by rowing dinghy. Beyond, the harbour widens again, its mouth sheltered by the Breaksea Islands, which face the might of the Southern Ocean.
Port Davey is more open and exposed, but in good weather conditions we are often able to paddle deep into this spectacular harbour, even entering the mouth of the Davey River and venturing upstream towards the magnificent Davey Gorge.
The waterways of Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour lie at 43 degrees south, in the direct path of the winds that sailors call the Roaring 40s. These prevailing westerlies sweep around high southern latitudes, almost unhindered by land. They brush Tasmania, the South Island of New Zealand and the tip of South America. The air you breathe down here last blew over land on the coast of Chile, 8ooo kilometres to the west.
The winds bring high rainfall – just over two metres in this part of the island. Southerly gales are frequent, carrying cold air from the Southern Ocean.
But most of the bad weather arrives in the winter months – from late spring through summer to early autumn, during our paddling season, there are long spells of sunny, mild (and sometimes hot) days. You need to be prepared for every kind of weather – it’s part of the special appeal of the region, with changing light, dramatic cloudscapes, brilliant sunshine, moody mists on the water, showers obscuring the mountain summits and days like the one pictured here – still, calm, cloudless and warm.
Also part of the appeal of the place as a kayaking destination is its complex geographical landscape. There’s a profusion of inlets, points, islands, beaches and bays, so there’s always somewhere that’s sheltered from the breeze and comfortable to camp.
Few people have the opportunity to experience such remote wilderness regions – and exploring by sea kayak is the most authentic and adventurous way to immerse yourself in the awe-inspiring natural beauty of Southwest Tasmania.